Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 


Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process


Image result for custom jewelry Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 


Calla Gold is a wonderful designer and jeweler that has some great articles on custom jewelry.  Below I will share some of the tips of the process she has shared on her blog.  Here at luxamart Jewelry in frisco,TX we practice many of the same techniques and methods described.

The more difficult the job, the more time I have to spend figuring out the cost of the job. Over the years as more and more people have found out about me, I’ve had to spend more and more time working out bids and what to charge.

Hmm, somehow in my rosey imaginings of being a jewelry designer I didn’t picture that part. If girls just wanna have fun, I just wanna design jewelry.

jewelry Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 


It’s Not Something I Dash Off in Two Second

When you work on custom jewelry there are a lot of steps to it. Even if you like a design I have already made, chances are you want different sized gems or other alterations.

That means that I’ll start from scratch and make that ring to fit your finger, use your grandmother’s diamond or any other special request.

I’m just saying that time is spent on your design idea and the many steps to create it. And doing the bid is not a dead easy thing to do.

Image result for custom jewelry Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 

Happy New Year to You and Me

As a New Year’s present for 2017, I’ve decided to give myself the gift of time.

I’m seeing if I can’t lighten my time load by explaining a bit to you, the whole bid process.

Then you can help me by understanding this process. It’ll make it really nice for me to work with you on the bid step when  we’re both on the  same page.

George and the Free Bid

When I’ve explained the design and bid process in the past I’ve found my clients to be more understanding. But not always to begin with.

I had a client, George, who wanted me to bid three different Engagement ring styles with different center diamonds and to itemize each bid because he’s an engineer. I explained how I bid and the time it takes me.

“George, you are asking me to spend a couple hours per bid, doing drawings, searching for diamonds, itemizing pricing for gold, small diamonds, larger diamonds, CAD wax creation, casting, finishing, setting, hand engraving, labor, and like that. Correct me if I’m wrong, but you expect me to do all this for free to ‘win’ your business.”


“I’m afraid that I can’t block out all that free time for you. I have a lot of clients and custom jobs and it’s me, not a big huge business. I can give you basic guesstimates on the three styles and show you diamonds.  My other clients have expectations and deadlines and I have a husband who is my business partner and he doesn’t go for my giving away big chunks of time.”

“I’m an engineer, we like to know all the details. But I know I want you to design my ring.”

“You can pay for my time to do the bid work the way that you want it, or choose a diamond and pick one of the three styles I’ve sketched out and go with my bid range.”

“That bid range idea is suddenly more appealing.”

George chose a diamond and a style and his fiancé loved the ring he had created for her. And I stayed married. A big win all around.

This Would be Easier if I Was a Mathmetician

I am a designer first and foremost. Creating custom jewelry is my superpower! My joy! I love collaborating with clients to design and craft unique jewelry intended to complement their looks and lifestyles. Alas, this is not always an easy process and can take hours and hours.

Creating Jewelry Designs and Pricing are Intertwined

Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 

When I start working with a client on a project, I have to sketch out the custom piece of jewelry, estimate how much gold it will take, and calculate the costs.

Among  other tasks I have to figure out how tall, how wide, how much curvature should be in each piece. I love  to figure out the textures and engraving and small details.

Some  of  my  time is spent with hours of looking at diamonds, gemstones, and pearls. I look at color, cut, clarity, dimension and weight. It’s necessary and enjoyable, to make sure each stone matches and fits each particular project.

How Much Time do I Spend Spending Too Much Time on a Bid Isn’t Great

Figuring out what to charge for a project is not easy and can take a lot of time. I can easily spend two or three hours designing and bidding a project only to have the customer never call me back! This happened more with distance clients whom I have never met.

I’ve been asked to design ten thousand dollar rings only to be told—after hours of work—that they can only afford two thousand. Or simply, “Thanks, I’ll think about it.”

That was back in the old days. I clearly wasn’t enthusiastically asking for people’s budget. And I do understand that sometimes you don’t really have a budget in mind.

Even with a budget in mind,  bidding still takes time.


From an artistic point of view you have clearly found the right jewelry designer. I want to help each person and not put someone off because I ran out of time because I was writing bids for eight hours.

I Want to Design Your Jewelry

Wide Sapphire and Diamond Wedding Ring Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 

Truly I didn’t become a jewelry designer because I love writing bids. I want to design your jewelry. I want to dive into the details.

If that first design idea and bid range is out of your price comfort zone, let’s go for a plan B. Or a plan C. Let’s focus on finding the right design and (talking to myself here) not spend so much time writing up pretty bids. (Ooh, I really love the sound of that.)

What do Other Jewelers Do?

Tips on custom rings to help understand the jewelry making process 

Thanks to Generous Diamond Goddess Aleah Arundale and Jewelers Helping Jewelers For Help Answer My Questions About How Jewelers Elsewhere Deal With Bidding


My thanks to these kind and excellent jewelers for their time in answering how they deal with bids and the time it takes to do them.

The Jewelry Industry Speaks!

Shane Krugman-kadi, says “I get $500 deposit and let them know that will go towards my time and include the CAD. If they decide they don’t want to move forward, I still get paid for my time. I’ve never had anyone serious say no.”

Mark Grosser says, “We would never charge to try and make a sale, it seems snobbish and creates a sense to the customer that you’re going to charge too much. It starts the design discussion with negative undertones. We can spend an hour and close 95% of our custom consultations. What is a bid? We quote prices at our shop. We don’t bid on jobs. We also get a 50% down payment. It was always the standard right?”

Joseph Candella says, “I charge them a set price for the design work. Whether they proceed from that point is on them. Tell them you need to create the design to produce a Bill of Materials to determine the total cost. If they can’t live with that, they have no intention of moving forward.”

Mark Grosser says, “I work by appointment in our store or at events …. I design and draw by hand at the first meeting … then figure out all my costs markups and give the customer a firm price. No matter if it’s CAD, hand carved, out of a catalog, hand fabricated, using their old gold for credit or their gems.”

“Whatever is needed to do the job the best way. I include all material I supply, deduct scrap gold and add labor…price is firm, no estimates. I get 50% of the whole price right then… then go make it and get the balance when delivered. It takes anytime from 2-8 weeks depending on the job. I’m always busy. This is my 40th year as a bench jeweler.”

Jessica Ioerger says, “I work by appointment for custom jobs. It’s $50.00 for the appointment. That goes towards their item and if they don’t do it then I’m not out my time. It helps put an air of their ownership on the item before it’s even made.”

Dan Dement says, “We charge a $500 Deposit for CAD design and wax model. It’s not refundable, but it applies to cost of their ring. We give a ballpark price up front and unless they add a lot to the design ideas or diamond weight, it sticks. No deposit, no work!”

Ashley Gordin Linden says, “I try and scare them away a bit up front to weed out the ones that can’t afford it by telling them custom rings start at about $1500 and go up from there. After they approve a sketch I get half down.”

Come in to luxamart today for the greatest value for your jewelry needs!  We buy, sell and repair and clean diamond rings, gold, silver, platinum and coins and coin collectors.  Staying up to date on technology and industry trends we provide amazing services.  We also sell and buy and repair luxury watches, Engagement rings, necklaces and much more.  We are located in booming frisco, TX at Lebanon and Preston Rd.  

4944 Preston Rd Suite #116

frisco,TX 75034



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